ABOUT TO DOCK. NICE VIEW FROM OUR CABIN, EH?
A MARBLE STATUE IN THE CASTLE GROUNDS.
THE OLD ELEVATOR, DESIGNED BY EIFFEL, OR ONE OF HIS STUDENTS.
We arrived in Lisbon at noon. Usually we get into port at dawn, when I’m asleep (DUH!), so it was nice to be outside, enjoying the sights as we entered the mouth of the River Tagus and headed to our dock further upstream. We could see many of Lisbon’s famous landmarks from the ship, and we passed under the city’s copy of the Golden Gate Bridge. Everywhere, there were wide boulevards lined with flowering jacarandas which contrasted splendidly with the terracotta roof-tiles.
It’s a huge city, so Robin and I decided to concentrate on two areas near the ship: Baixa - the shopping district with wide pedestrian walkways. And Alfama - the medieval Moorish district consisting of narrow, winding streets and houses decorated with superb tile work.
By the time we’d walked up Rua Augusta to Rossio Square in Baixa, it was lunch time. We decided to dine at Nicola, the famous art deco cafe on the square. The food was pretty average but we got to watch the world go by for an hour or two, listen to buskers, and observe how begging works in this part of the world. For dessert, we grabbed a couple of pasteis de nata from a nearby bakery. The most delicious custard tarts you’re ever likely to try. Crisp, light pastry filled with creamy custard that’s been scorched black on top. They’re butt-ugly to look at, but oh so good.
We needed all the sustenance we could get for our steep walk up the hill to the Castle of St George. This is well-maintained ruins now (an oxymoron?) and the surrounding area is a shady, peaceful park with stunning views across the city in all directions. It was easy to spend a few hours up there.
We walked back to the ship through the Alfama district, peeked through peoples’ open door and windows, listened to neighbours shout at each other from balcony to street, avoided scooters, checked out the menus of the tiny bistros and admired the colourful, decorative tiles that cover the front of the buildings.
I’m home in a week, so this might be my last blog. Our only other port is Le Havre, before the cruise ends, and I’m not planning on doing much there except chowing down on a giant seafood platter. However, I might surprise you.....
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